London to Istanbul
Day 40: 12th June ’05
Distance: 37.30 miles
Total Distance: 2225.8 miles
Route: Limenaria » Thassos Town
Just a short hop around the island today; in order to be closer to the port for an early ferry tomorrow morning. On the way, I spent a few hours at ‘Aliki’ beach which was absolutely stunning. Spoke with a nice French girl who was having trouble with her camera (same model as mine), but I was unable to help.
Carried on to ‘Skala Potamias’ where I had originally planned to spend the night but it was so awful that I passed straight through to the port (Thassos Town). It turned out to be an inspired decision as it was a lovely place to spend the rest of the day and night. I think I’ve been really lucky in staying at the best places on the island. I should know what it has to offer as I’ve cycled around its entirety!
Found a wick-e-eed bar near Thassos Town; at the very end of the beach, built into the rocks with chairs and tables either side of a tiny spur of land. About 25 ‘tea-cake’ tourists turned up later on to ruin the viewing of a near perfect sunset; following their tour-rep leader like smacked-up sheep. These kind of tourists want lining up and shooting. The simple act of sitting on seats becomes a committee decision taking half an hour.
OK, so perhaps I’m a little intolerant, but I just want to grab them all by the neck and shake some individuality, sense of adventure, independence and life into them. Perhaps some people are just happier being told what to think, when to think and which of the identical white plastic seats would be most suited to them.
Day 41: 13th June ’05
Distance: 55.39 miles
Total Distance: 2281.1 miles
Route: Thassos Town » Fanari
A fairly late start; caught the ferry back to the mainland and after just over 3.5 hours on the bike was finished for the day. Low on cash and in a more remote area with no banks about, I’m forced to camp tonight for the first time in two weeks (and for the first time in Greece!). It feels great. Sort of a nostalgia for the ‘good old days’ of freezing mornings and packing / unpacking the dew sodden tent. The weather refuses to make it’s mind up still which seems unusual for June in Greece.
As I write, I’m sitting on the campsite’s deserted unkempt beach, underneath a huge great tarpaulin strung between a tree and a lookout hut. It’s raining and I’m drinking the old ‘head-rot’ Retsina. This is what life’s all about.
Earlier on, I’d walked much further down the beach in search of food and a pint, but stumbled upon Ibiza instead! A strange place most out of keeping with the areas that I had cycled through earlier to get here. Hundreds of beautiful young Greeks were ‘living it large’ down on the sand and at the bars of several establishments strung out along the length of the beach. Lots of bars called ‘Del Mar’ etc, with white washed decking, cream curtains flowing in the breeze and bean-bags about the place. I felt totally out of the place being the old fella that I am, and also the lack of style imposed through 40 days of living out of bags rammed with tools and other kit.
I decided to leave the locals to their mash-up, and return back to the campsite beach, retsina, diary writing and an early bed.
Day 42: 14th June ’05
Distance: 62.73 miles
Total Distance: 2343.9 miles
Route: Fanari » Alexandroupolis
A fairly straightforward day. An early finish gave me time to do some clothes washing and head into town in search of the interweb. The hotel tonight reminds me of Australian backpacker hostels (especially the better ones along the east coast). Sort of like converted / adapted
former motels with facilities for cooking, washing etc and also with space for camping if needed. A nice, informal set-up which I really enjoyed – even despite the kids having a mini-rave outside my room until the early hours.
I noticed a considerable military prescence today; no doubt it will become more apparent as I get closer to the border with Turkey. I’m going to miss Greece a lot. It’s possibly my favourite country of the trip so far. A note on the roads in Greece; They’re amazing! If UK roads were given a score for road surface, signage and driver attitude they’d get about 8/10 from me. Greece would be 7.5/10 and Italy a well deserved 2/10.
Day 43: 15th June ’05
Distance: 65.59 miles
Total Distance: 2409.5 miles
Route: Alexandroupolis » Malkara
On the road very early today. Reached the border quite quickly and with some apprehension, although this turned out to be unnecessary as all passport and visa formalities were fairly straightforward. The border was not heavily guarded and there didn’t seem to be overly hostile interactions between the Greeks and Turks passing in either direction.
Some guy in ‘Meteora’ told me of the hype served up by the politicians in the relations between the two countries. At the level of your man on the street, the Greek / Turkish hostility is less of an issue. I have to say that I’m a little ignorant to the absolute root cause of tensions, but I know that Cyprus is certainly a major bone of contention.
I was almost killed today by some slack-jawed f****ng brain-dead dip-sh*t, who swerved deliberately into my path. He must have been travelling over 50 mph and missed me by a couple of feet. It was shortly after crossing the border, and on an empty road. Maybe he didn’t see me. Maybe he had a chromosome missing. Maybe he thought I was Greek. Maybe Turkish. Maybe he had had a horrific incident with a bike when he was a boy. Maybe his dad didn’t love him, and never bought him the bike he was promised one Christmas. I don’t know – but I’d sure like to ask him face to face one day.
Later on, I encountered a fairly nasty climb and had to stop, short of breath and legs, just before the summit. Some guy came across the road to ask me if I had a cigarette; I almost burst out laughing. Also, I saw some girls selling themselves by the roadside. Sad I know, but again I almost p*ssed myself laughing when they beckoned me over. I shouted, “Do I look like I have the energy!?” but I’m not sure they understood.
A painfully strong headwind all day today made me angry and then surprisingly emotional. It’s so strange that I now can find myself treating natural forces like the wind as real entities that can be reasoned or argued with. I’ve been talking to my bike for weeks now. I need some human companionship soon.
Day 44: 16th June ’05
Distance: 81.97 miles
Total Distance: 2491.5 miles
Route: Malkara » Silivri
Aaaargggh! The roads have turned to sh*te! Probably the worst of the whole trip. Come back Italy – all is forgiven (well maybe not). But to be fair, there are huge stretches of roadworks; If I came back here next year I’m sure that most of the roads would be vastly improved. The route followed the coast for a bit today which was very beautiful. Nearly no wind today which was a god-send after yesterdays misery.
A fantastic room tonight complete with a bath to soak in – joy of joys! I made friends with the concierge of the hotel who has asked to meet up when he finishes work, so he can practise his English (that old chesnut). I will oblige, but feel tired and wont stay out too late. Istanbul is very close…
Day 45: 17th June ’05
Distance: 67.71 miles
Total Distance: 2559.2 miles
Route: Silivri » Istanbul
Whooooo-hooooooo! I arrived into Istanbul today, having tried not to mention or think about the prospects of actually getting here eventually! It’s a real sense of achievement, but as expected, is also hugely anti-climactic. An early start to the day after a fairly late night. Mehmet, the concierge at the hotel had, depsite my protestations, insisted that I met all of his friends and ate and drank with him until late into the evening. A very decent bloke indeed, and a lovely evening all the same.
I’m not sure what to do now that I have achieved my goal of cycling to Istanbul. A part of me is desperate to just carry on and on and on – and see just how far I could realistically get. Another part feels that enough is enough, and that continuing further is too self-indulgent and unnecessary. I have a life to go back to. The other, more honest part of me, is unsure that I have the ability, guts, determination and desire to cycle further on from here. In hindsight, the trip through Europe has been relatively easy. East of Istanbul lies the mountains of Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan or Pakistan, India… where am I heading to anyway? The adventure would be amazing, but the hardships could become much more serious. It’s a real step up from cycling in Europe; I’d need to carry more kit, and get much more serious.
However, I’m not ready to just stick the bike on a plane and fly home just yet. Most likely, I will have a few days in Istanbul and then see if I can cycle / train some of the way back home. Watch this space.
Day 46: 18th June ’05
Distance: 0 miles
Total Distance: 2559.2 miles
Route: Istanbul
Spent the day doing touristy things. Took a ferry over to the Asian side of Istanbul, and also visited the very impressive Hagia Sophia. Spent the rest of the day sitting and eating in cafes watching the world go by. I love Istanbul.
Day 47: 19th June ’05
Distance: 0 miles
Total Distance: 2559.2 miles
Route: Istanbul » Sofia (Train)
Visited the ‘Underground Cistern’ today which I had first seen in the ‘From Russia With Love’ film. Heavy rain in the afternoon, so I spent most of the day on the internet at the hotel. The staff at the hotel were good guys, and we spent at least a couple of hours chatting and drinking tea.
In the evening I made my way to the train station to catch the Orient Express to Sofia. Well OK, perhaps it wasn’t quite the ‘real’ Orient Express, but it was on the same line at least!
No guards van on the train which was hard to believe. I spent an age with the conductor trying to find a cupboard or similar to squeeze the bike into, before eventually bringing the bike into the sleeping compartment with me. I’m sharing the cabin with an amiable Dutch guy, who was totally sound about the bike being in with us. In my experience, the Dutch have to be one of the most relaxed, well-informed, likeable and decent people on the planet – but I digress.
We cross over the border into Bulgaria at 4.00am, which turns out to be no real hassle despite having to embark the train temporarily, some slightly heavy-handed border guards and the interupted sleep.
Day 48: 20th June ’05
Distance: 0 miles
Total Distance: 2559.2 miles
Route: Sofia
Staying at a fantastic youth hostel run by a charming old geezer. The hostel appears very shabby on the outside, but its interior has been lovingly restored and looks more like a swanky Scandinavian apartment. I find Sofia a little disappointing; it’s not exactly ugly, but
somehow lacks the grandeur you’d expect to find in a capital city. It’s not without a few real gems though.
Buying a train ticket today was possibly more difficult than doing so in India – and that’s saying something. I have no idea if either my bike or myself will end up in Belgrade tomorrow night.
Day 49: 21st June ’05
Distance: 0 miles
Total Distance: 2559.2 miles
Route: Sofia » Belgrade (Train)
The longest day of the year in astronomical terms also turned out to be the longest day in human terms following a nut-ache of a day’s journey. As expected, getting the bike onto the train was a complete farce. Two ‘Chuckle Brother’ porter types clocked me as soon as I wheeled the bike into Sofia station. After almost an hour of “To me… to you” trying to find a suitable place for the bike on the train, I ended up having to put it in the overhead rack myself. Barry and Paul had the cheek to demand a big tip; I didn’t have the fight in me to refuse.
There were at least 10 conductors for the journey – each one of them giving me a b*llocking for the bike (saying I needed a luggage ticket or summat), before eventually giving up because I couldn’t understand them. The crawling arrival of the train into Belgrade was enough to test the patience of a saint, rolling into Belgrade central at 1.00 a.m – a mere 5 hours late.
However, I did have the good fortune to meet a nice bloke called ‘Boban’ who told me about his job as an editor at a TV studio in downtown Belgrade. He said I was welcome to come down and see the studio setup the next day, if I had time.
I was shocked to find out how much people earn here. A drunken electrician in one of the carriages told me that he made 3500 Euros a year!! He almost fell over when I told him how much the sparkies were making in the UK. Places I’ve been to in Asia you can comprehend the low wages a little more, but Serbia is right on the doorstep of some of the richest countries of Europe, and the world.